Sun on skin. Water that glints in the light. Warm boards that never splinter. That is the outdoor shower dream. The right lumber turns the dream into truth. Pick poorly and you fight rot, splits, and fast decay. Pick smart and you wash in comfort for a decade or more. This long read walks you through the choice. It also shows why the best wood for shower floor can differ from the wall pick. Grab coffee and settle in. By the last line you will know exactly what to buy, how to build, and how to keep the setup fresh.
Why wood choice matters
Outdoor showers face three constant enemies. Water never rests. Sun beats down. Air swings from hot to cold. Good boards shrug off all three forces. Bad boards twist like ribbon and turn gray in one season. So take time on this first step. You will save money, time, and stress down the road.
- Resistance to rot*
Some woods grow chemicals that block fungi. Others need treatment. Pick a species that owns this skill from birth and you cut future work in half.
- Dimensional stability*
Boards swell when wet. They shrink when dry. Stable woods move less. Stable floors squeak less. Walls stay tight.
- Easy care*
You want weekend fun not endless sanding. A good grain pattern hides scratches and takes oil well. Less fuss means more swims and less shop time.
Top tier picks
Below are woods that win in most yards. They hold color. They smell good. They last.
- Western red cedar
- Light and pleasant to cut*
Cedar carries oils that block decay. It dries fast after each rinse. Soft grain feels kind to hands and feet. Kick the board and you smell the forest. Builders love it for walls and trim.
- Teak
- King of the dock*
Boat decks make the case better than any blog line. Teak stands in sea spray for decades. Silica in the grain adds grip and sheds water. It costs more yet it is still the gold choice for floors.
- Ipe
- Dense as stone*
Some call it Brazilian ironwood. Knives dull on the first cut. Drive a screw without a pilot hole and you may snap the head. Yet ipe stays straight in salt air. Great for floors and post caps where abuse lives.
- Sipo mahogany
- Warm and rich*
Sipo shines on slatted platforms. It weighs less than ipe but still laughs at water. Color sits between teak brown and cedar red. Many pros choose it for large deck panels.
Mid tier picks
These species cost less yet still beat normal pine. They suit mild zones or framed parts that stay drier.
- Cypress works well in the Gulf and Deep South.
- Redwood gives a soft red tone and tools like cedar.
- Black locust is local to many states and needs no treatment.
- Thermally modified pine stands damp better than plain pine after heat curing.
Budget helper
Pressure treated yellow pine fills frames and hidden posts. It looks rough but it stays strong. Cover it with cedar or teak and no one will notice the green tint.
Pick by climate
Every yard brings a mix of sun, salt, and frost. Match the grain to the zone.
- Coastal salt air*
Teak or ipe for the floor. Cedar or ipe for the walls. Stainless grade three one six screws.
- Four season frost*
Cedar walls on a pressure treated frame. Teak or sipo floor on raised sleepers. Put shutoff valves in the warm house. Pitch pipes so they drain.
- Hot dry high desert*
Cedar and redwood thrive. Pick teak if lawn sprinklers spray the base.
- Humid inland*
Cypress or cedar for walls. Teak or sipo for the deck.
The best wood for shower floor
Feet never lie. A slick plank can ruin the calm faster than a cold breeze. Teak wins here. It grips even when soapy. It ages to a silver that looks like weathered rope on a dock. Sipo runs a close second. Ipe rules where rentals or heavy traffic live. Cedar can work for a lake cabin but dents show fast.
Floor design tips
- Slat width between two and three inches feels stable.
- Gap size near one quarter inch lets suds fall away.
- A lift out panel cleans fast. Make it three foot square for easy lift.
- Sleepers under the panel add strength. Use teak, ipe, or pressure treated.
Under the sleepers lay three quarter inch stone over landscape fabric. In clay soil tie the pit to a drain line so rain never pools.
Fasteners that do not fail
Metal meets water every day here. Pick wrong and rust stains bloom.
- Stainless grade three one six near salt.
- Stainless grade three zero four inland.
- Deep thread deck screws bite better than trim heads.
- Nylon washers help when brass meets steel.
Pre drill near ends. Countersink if you like a smooth top. Plug holes with short grain dowels for a neat face.
Joinery that breathes
Keep joints simple so water can break free.
- Leave small gaps so air moves.
- Raise wall panels one inch above stone.
- Cap posts with a slight slope so drops run off.
- Avoid housed joints that trap damp air.
Use a small roundover bit on all edges. Fingers thank you and water slides away.
End grain guard
The end of a board drinks faster than the side. Seal it right after each new cut. Sand to grit one twenty. Warm the surface with a hair dryer. Rub beeswax until it glosses. Let it cool then buff. Repeat at every yearly check.
Finish choices
Pick one path and stay with it. Switching mid life often shows patch lines.
- Let it gray
Cedar, redwood, teak, and ipe gray with grace. Wash with gentle soap each month in season. Use an oxygen deck cleaner each spring.
- Penetrating oil
Wipe a marine oil in thin coats. Soak then wipe off. Recoat every six to twelve months. Holds color and slows checks.
- High build varnish
Most builders skip film outside. It peels. Use only on small trim if you love gloss. Sand and recoat before the layer lifts.
Always coat every side before install. Back priming slows moisture swing.
Drain plan
Water needs a road out. A dry well solves it in many yards. Dig a pit three foot deep and wide. Line with fabric. Fill with stone. Keep it ten foot from foundations. Local rules may demand a sewer tie. A quick call saves fines.
Grade the top soil away from the house. One quarter inch drop each foot moves spray fast. Keep the floor panel flat so water falls through gaps not off an edge.
Ten step build outline
- Mark a sunny spot close to supply lines.
- Call the inspector for gray water tips.
- Excavate eight inches inside a four by four foot square.
- Lay fabric and stone then tamp.
- Set pier blocks or pour small footings.
- Bolt pressure treated posts to metal bases.
- Frame a deck band with pressure treated two by fours.
- Lift cedar wall panels so air flows below the cladding.
- Build a slatted teak floor on hardwood sleepers.
- Plumb with a pressure balance valve and an indoor shutoff.
Now rinse and smile.
Care calendar
- Monthly in warm months*
Rinse walls after sandy feet days. Wash with a soft brush and mild soap.
- Spring*
Tighten screws. Wash with oxygen cleaner. Oil if you use oil finish.
- Mid season*
Spot oil high sun walls. Sweep leaf litter from the stone bed.
- Fall*
Drain lines in freeze zones. Lift the floor panel and clean grit. Wax end grain while dry.
Quick fixes
- Black dots on cedar? Wash with oxygen cleaner.
- Green film on floor? Add sun and airflow. Trim plants.
- Small cracks? Normal on cedar and ipe. Oil slows new ones.
- Raised grain? Sand with grit one twenty then oil.
- Rust streaks? Swap to stainless three one six and plug old holes.
Cost talk
Break budget into two piles. Upfront and upkeep. Cedar walls cost less than teak. Teak floors cost more on day one yet ask less each year. Pressure treated frames hide under the skin so spend here not there. Stainless three one six costs more than three zero four but wipes future stain worries in salty spray.
Rough price guide
- Western red cedar boards often land near five dollars per foot.
- Teak slats often reach eight dollars per foot.
- Ipe sits between six and seven in most yards.
- Pressure treated posts stay near three dollars a foot.
Over ten years cedar walls plus yearly oil match teak walls plus zero oil. Pick the look you love.
Design flavor
- Vertical cedar tongue and groove feels modern.*
- Horizontal boards feel beach casual.*
- A clerestory gap near the top brings light and vents steam.*
- A cedar bench set at sixteen inches invites lazy rinses.*
- Warm wood next to matte black fixtures pops on camera and in person.*
Green angle
Ask for lumber with a Forest Stewardship Council stamp. Pick black locust where mills stock it. Skip mixed tropical packs with no clear origin. A clean chain of custody keeps forests alive for the next swim season.
Part by part cheat sheet
- Posts: pressure treated on metal bases or black locust above ground.
- Rails: cedar or ipe for strong edges.
- Walls: Western red cedar wins most lots.
- Floor: teak or sipo or ipe.
- Bench: cedar with oil on top or teak raw.
Tools you need
- Circular saw and miter saw.
- Drill driver and bits plus countersink.
- Random orbit sander with grits eighty, one twenty, one fifty.
- Stainless screws.
- Fabric and stone.
- Marine oil.
- Oxygen cleaner.
- Beeswax.
- Outdoor sealant.
FAQ
- What is the best waterproof wood for outdoor use*
Teak, ipe, and sipo mahogany stand above the rest. Cedar rules on walls.
- What finish lasts longest outside*
A penetrating marine oil protects with little peel risk.
- What wood fits a shower floor*
Teak ranks first. Sipo and ipe follow.
- Can cedar get wet daily*
Yes, if you let it dry between sessions and seal the ends.
- How thick should floor slats be*
Three quarter to one inch feels solid and dries fast.
- Do end cuts need wax*
Yes. End grain sucks water faster than the face.
- Are composites fine for floors*
They can work. They feel cool underfoot yet need firm support and space for drip.
A quick shop tale
I skipped wax on one cedar bench slat during my first build. That lone piece split wide within a year. Every slat since then got wax without question. Small moves save big repairs.
Final thoughts
Pick the correct species for your climate. Build so air moves. Give water a quick path away. Guard the ends. Use stainless screws. Keep a simple wash plan. If you follow those simple lines your outdoor shower will serve with joy for many summers. Post a photo when the first rinse happens. I will cheer from here.