I still catch a whiff of cedar sap every time I think about the first table I built. Shavings stuck to my boots, the planer hummed, and that spicy perfume filled the garage. Good times. Better lesson: pick the right boards and that table becomes a family heirloom. Grab the wrong stuff and you spend Saturday mornings swapping rotten planks. So lets get you pointed in the smart direction.
Quick Picks if Youre in a Hurry
- Longest life with almost no upkeep
Teak for top and seats, white oak for the frame.
- Sweet mid-price balance
White oak up top, cedar where folks sit, fir under the hood.
- Tight budget but still solid
Knotty cedar everywhere folks touch, pressure-treated pine only for the feet.
- Lightweight and easy on tools
Western red cedar sealed hard at the ends.
- Park-grade tank
White oak or Douglas fir, heavy braces, thick deck oil.
That covers the hit list. Stick around and well dig deeper.
Four Real-World Traits Every Outdoor Wood Needs
- Natural decay resistance
Oils, extractives, or tight cell walls that tell rot to buzz off.
- Dimensional stability
Grain that stays flat instead of curling like bacon in July.
- Strength over spans
Seats and tops bridge gaps, so flex matters.
- Workability plus weight
Your back and your blades both care.
Ignore one of those and youll feel it by next spring.
Tier List: From Luxe Legends to Bare-Bones Budget
Tier One: Premium Performers
- Teak
Packed with oil, shrugs at rain, turns a classy silver if you let it.
- Ipe
Hard as a bankers heart, dense, almost bulletproof, brutal on saw teeth.
- White oak
Closed pores, boat-builders swear by it, strong without weighing a ton.
Tier Two: Solid Citizens
- Western red cedar
Light, smells great, soft enough to dent if you drop a wrench.
- Redwood
Rich color, stable, supply depends on where you live.
- Cypress
Straight grain, decent decay resistance, gentle on tools.
- Eucalyptus or acacia
Dense, affordable when on sale, needs faithful oiling.
Tier Three: Wallet-Friendly Workhorses
- Pressure-treated southern yellow pine
Cheap, fine for ground contact, not so fine for bare legs.
- Douglas fir
Strong, straight, asks for good sealer, can splinter when dry.
- Thermally modified ash or pine
Heat-treated to fight rot, stable, a bit brittle at screw points.
Match Wood to Your Goal
Want a Table That Might Outlive You?
Go teak on the surface, white oak underneath. Gap the boards three-eighths of an inch, seal every fresh cut the moment its made, walk away. Oil if you crave that warm honey color, or let it gray with dignity.
Crave Long Life Without Dropping a Fortune?
Top boards in white oak, seats in cedar so they stay cool on a blistering day, frame in clear fir. Brush on penetrating deck oil twice the first year, once each spring after that.
Need It Cheap but Refuse to Buy Junk?
Knotty cedar everywhere people touch, pressure-treated pine only where wood kisses soil. Keep a sliver of plastic between treated parts and clean cedar. Porch paint on the feet, oil on the cedar, big grin on your face.
Building for Rowdy Park Crowds?
White oak all around or Douglas fir beefed up with fat braces. Stainless lags, wide washers, thick coat of deck oil. That table will laugh at teenagers dancing on the seats.
Deeper Dive: Species by Species
Teak
- Why it wins Oils block rot, grain stays calm.
- Workability Easy cuts, but wipe with acetone before glue.
- Finish tip Skip shiny varnish, stick with teak oil or marine oil.
- Cost hack Use narrower boards, spread them with wider gaps.
Ipe
- Rock-solid reason Density keeps water out and boards flat.
- Tool talk Carbide only, pre-drill every hole, thank me later.
- Finish One oil coat if you want color, none if you like gray.
- Downside So heavy youll call a buddy just to flip a plank.
White Oak
- Core strength Closed cells repel water, strong under load.
- Note Red oak looks similar but sucks up water, skip it.
- Hardware Tannins corrode bargain screws, go stainless.
- Finish UV-blocking oil, rag it on, walk away.
Western Red Cedar
- Perks Light, smells like a spa, cool to the touch in sun.
- Softness Sand to 120, avoid fuzzy surfaces.
- Structure help Wider top boards or hidden center cleat.
- Care Quick oil each spring, five-minute job.
Redwood
- Looks Deep red heartwood, stable if you buy decent grade.
- Tip Heartwood fights rot, sapwood doesnt, so shop smart.
- Finish Clear deck sealer or oil, many let it weather.
Cypress
- Why pick it Straight grain, cuts smooth, fair weight.
- Use Tops and seats, pair with oak or fir legs.
- Finish Same drill as cedar: oil and chill.
Douglas Fir
- Strength Strong beams, tight grain when you find vertical pieces.
- Splinter alert Ease every edge, seal those ends.
- Finish Penetrating oil, maybe a little tint for style.
Pressure-Treated Pine
- Place Feet or hidden frames only, never for plates and skin.
- Drying tip Let boards dry before final cuts, reduces twist.
- Finish Porch paint on ground-contact areas, plastic pads on patio.
Thermally Modified Woods
- Edge Heat chases out sugars, bugs hate it, grain stays flat.
- Warning Brittle if you muscle screws, so pre-drill every time.
- Finish Plain oil works fine.
Climate Calls the Shots
- Blazing sun all day Cedar or teak stay cooler, finish in light tints.
- Salty coastal air Teak or white oak, grade 316 stainless hardware, freshwater rinse after storms.
- Shady and soggy Teak, ipe, white oak, or cypress; wider gaps for quick drying, feet on pavers.
- High altitude swing season White oak and cedar handle big temp jumps, avoid flat-grain planks wider than six inches.
Six Design Tricks That Add Years
- Gap boards so water runs off fast.
- Round every edge; feels better, splinters less.
- Seal end grain right after you cut it.
- Lift feet off soil with pavers or plastic pads.
- Add a center stretcher under the top to kill sag.
- Design so puddles have nowhere to hide.
I learned the end-grain rule the hard way. Skipped sealant once. By August that seat split like dry firewood. Never again.
Hardware, Glue, and Other Metal Bits
- Stainless screws where people look.
- Hot-dip galvanized bolts for blind joints.
- No bright zinc in cedar or oak unless you crave black stains.
- Pre-drill dense woods; split once and youll remember forever.
- Exterior polyurethane glue for hidden joints, though mechanical fasteners do most of the work outside.
Finish Lines
Penetrating Oils
Soaks deep, shows grain, easy to freshen. Perfect for teak, cedar, oak, and ipe.
Marine Varnish
Glossy rock star at first, peels like a sunburn if you slack on upkeep. Great for trim, lousy for picnic tops.
Film-Forming Poly
Tough shell, cracks on end grain over time. Better for sheltered furniture.
Paint
Great on pressure-treated frames, not so great where forks scrape.
- My usual routine:* Flood ends with thin epoxy, two coats of deck oil before assembly, final wipe after its all together. Ten minutes each spring keeps it looking sharp.
Money Talk: Think Years, Not Dollars per Board
- Teak or ipe Highest sticker, lowest yearly cost over decades.
- White oak Mid sticker, long life, fair annual hit.
- Cedar or redwood Mid cost, decent life, easy upkeep.
- Pressure-treated pine Low ticket, more elbow grease, shorter life.
Hybrid builds save cash: premium where hands touch, cheaper stuff where eyes dont linger.
Sample Six-Foot Cut List
| Part | Qty | Length |
|——|—–|——–|
| Top boards | 6 | 72 in |
| Cleats | 3 | 26 in |
| Seat boards | 4 | 72 in |
| Seat supports | 2 | 61 in |
| Legs | 4 | 31 in (angled ends) |
| Center stretcher | 1 | Cut to fit |
Basic toolscircular saw, drill, sander, patienceget it done.
Build Flow in Plain English
- Select boards while the yard forklift still hums.
- Cut rough lengths then seal every end.
- Plane or sand to smooth, knock down corners.
- Pre-finish two coats everywhere, sides too.
- Lay top boards face down, screw cleats.
- Assemble A-frame legs with seat supports attached.
- Flip frames under top, secure with bolts.
- Drop in stretcher for spine strength.
- Fasten seats then add foot pads.
Invite neighbors once the oil quits feeling tacky.
Care Plan by Species
- Teak Mild soap twice a year, oil only if color matters to you.
- Ipe One fresh oil coat each spring if you want brown, none if silver suits.
- White oak Oil every spring, wipe puddles during first month.
- Cedar/Redwood Light wash, quick oil, watch for mildew.
- Fir Check for splinters, sand, reseal ends if dry.
- Pressure-treated pine Tighten bolts yearly, repaint feet when dull.
Covers help but must breathe. Lift one edge so moisture can sneak out.
Five Mistakes I See Over and Over (Plus Fixes)
| Oops | Why it Hurts | Simple Fix |
|——|————–|———–|
| No gaps between top boards | Puddles rot the seams | Pry with spacer, add new cleats |
| Skipped end-grain seal | Water dives in, cracks follow | Dry, brush thin epoxy, wipe drips |
| Zinc screws in cedar | Ugly black streaks | Swap for stainless, sand, oxalic acid wash |
| Thick shiny film finish outside | Peels, looks sad | Strip once, switch to oil |
| Over-spanned seats | Bowing, creaks | Pop in hidden center brace |
Questions People Ask All the Time
- What wood lasts longest outdoors?*
Teak wins, with ipe and white oak as runners-up.
- Should I use pressure-treated lumber?*
Fine for hidden ground-contact parts, not for eating surfaces.
- Whats the coolest wood to sit on in summer?*
Cedar stays gentle on bare skin even at noon.
- Can I mix species?*
Yes, and it often saves cash. Premium for tops and seats, sturdy cheap stuff for frames.
Sourcing and Grading Hints
- Hunt for vertical grain; it moves less.
- Heartwood beats sapwood in cedar, redwood, and oak.
- Sight down boards for twist before you pay.
- Tap the plank; crisp ring usually means dry stock.
- Ask if cedar or fir is kiln-dried; wet boards warp like crazy later.
Rapid Decision Roadmap
- Measure patio space.
- Decide lifespan versus budget.
- Pick species set from premium, mid, or budget.
- Sketch frame with gaps, braces, lifted feet.
- Choose hardware and finish to match wood chemistry.
- Buy extra lumber; mistakes happen.
- Pre-finish, assemble, grab burgers.
Done.
Comfort Notes
Cedar feels warm and soft, teak cool and smooth, oak firm with a little spring. Round seat fronts more than you thinkcalves love it. A slight back bevel on seat boards ups lounge factor without fancy joinery.
Style Takes
- Modern Narrow top boards, tight gaps, white oak or ipe, crisp edges.
- Rustic Wide cedar planks, chatter marks left on purpose, soft radius on corners.
- Farmhouse White oak tinted a hair warm, beefy legs, simple cross-stretchers.
Final Picks from a Guy Who Has Sawdust in His Hair Right Now
- Everyday yard White oak top and frame, cedar seats, stainless screws, deck oil.
- Breezy coastal deck Teak everywhere folks see, white oak frame, 316 stainless, two oils the first year.
- Shady budget build Cedar top and seats, fir legs lifted off soil, stainless screws, yearly oil.
Build smart, seal ends, mind the gaps, and that table will earn its keep long after the screw gun cools. Snap a pic when the first hot-off-the-grill burgers hit that fresh surfaceI promise youll smile each time you glance at it.