I still recall the first time I pushed a pine board across my dewalt 746 table saw. The top held a soft coat of wax so the wood felt like glass on ice. The motor hummed with a calm note that hinted at hidden strength. The blade sliced through the grain and left an edge so clean that light bounced off it. I laughed out loud. That memory never fades. If you want that same grin then this guide will help.
We will dig into what this saw offers. We will show how to pick a good used unit. We will teach you to tune it so every cut runs straight. We will keep language simple because clear words stick. You will see lists for quick checks. You will read stories that give context. You will follow direct steps in your own shop. By the end you will feel at ease with this machine. You might even pass on the grin to a friend when you watch their first cut.
Meet the dewalt 746 table saw
The dewalt 746 table saw sits in the sweet spot between a contractor saw and a full cabinet saw. You get a solid cast iron surface and a rigid base that keeps vibration low. You also keep weight light enough for a small shop. The blade is ten inch. The arbor size is five eighth inch. That spec lets you use most blades and dado sets on the market.
Many units carry rails that allow a rip of thirty inch. Some ship with longer rails that stretch to fifty two inch. Users love that choice because you can match the saw to the size of your space. The blade tilts to the left at forty five degrees. That tilt helps when you slice bevels on wide boards because the offcut stays on the table so the work feels safer.
This saw is no longer in new production. You will find it on the used market. The good news is that owners often keep their saw in good shape. The cast top resists wear and the trunnion gears are thick. The motor pulls through hardwood with ease. This mix of parts means a used example can serve you for decades if you show it care.
Why woodworkers keep it
- The top sits flat so cuts stay true.
- The lift and tilt run on smooth gears for easy height changes.
- The motor packs about one and three quarter horse which covers most hobby work.
- The footprint fits a garage shop yet feels solid under heavy stock.
- Standard slots accept miter gauges and sleds from many brands.
Points that need attention
- The stock fence can drift if you rush the setup.
- The dust port is small so chips pile up.
- The splitter and guard often go missing.
- The motor mount is a special cast part so plan ahead if you ever swap motors.
Specs that matter
Many woodworkers read spec sheets then shrug because numbers do not cut wood. Let us turn each line into plain meaning.
- Blade diameter ten inch so you can buy blades at any home center.
- Arbor size five eighth inch so both thin kerf and full kerf blades fit.
- Dado capacity up to eight inch so you can cut grooves for shelves in one pass.
- Rip capacity either thirty or fifty two inch based on the rail set so plan the rail length before you buy.
- Motor draw about fifteen amps at one hundred twenty volts so use a twenty amp circuit.
- Weight near two hundred pounds so two people move it without strain.
- Table depth twenty six inch so you can support panels with a simple outfeed table.
- Dust port two and one half inch so an upgrade to four inch will help your lungs.
Choose the long rail kit if you cut many cabinets. Choose the shorter kit if you work in tight corners.
A smart checklist for used buyers
I have bought more used tools than I dare admit so I built a short ritual that spots trouble early. Bring this checklist and a small kit. A straightedge a square a scrap board and a flashlight will serve.
- Lay a straightedge across the top and look for gaps greater than three thousandths of an inch.
- Raise and tilt the blade through the full range and feel for smooth motion.
- Spin the blade by hand and listen for a dry growl that points to worn bearings.
- Start the motor and watch the blade for a quick wobble that calms at speed.
- Rip a scrap and check for burn marks or drift.
- Lock the fence then push on the far end to test for play.
- Inspect the drive belt for cracks.
- The correct part is an AX33 ribbed belt.
- Check for the splitter the guard the dado insert and extra throat plates.
- Confirm the voltage and the plug because some sellers rewire the motor.
- Ask if a mobile base or sliding table comes with the sale because those parts add huge value.
Price varies by region. A clean base saw often sells near six hundred. A unit with long rails slider and extras can push nine hundred. A rough saw that needs care can drop near three hundred and leaves room for parts.
First setup that gives arrow straight cuts
You rolled the saw into your space and you want to smell fresh shavings yet patience now will pay every day after.
Set the stance
Place the saw where you get clear feed paths at both front and back. Level the base front to back and side to side. A flat base keeps the cast top from twisting. If you use a mobile base then lock the wheels before fine tuning.
Add outfeed support
Build a simple torsion box on casters. Level it with the saw top. Now boards no longer fall at the end of a cut. Safety climbs and tear out drops.
Align blade to slot
This step stops burning and keeps cuts square. Raise a clean forty tooth blade to full height. Mark one tooth with a marker. Place a dial indicator against that tooth at the front of the blade and zero the gauge. Rotate the blade and bring the mark to the back. Read the dial. You want less than three thousandths variance. If it shows more then loosen the trunnion bolts under the top. Tap the assembly with a rubber mallet retighten and recheck.
No dial gauge? Use a good square. Touch the blade body near the gullets at the front then slide to the back and repeat until you feel even contact.
Set ninety and forty five stops
Place a digital angle cube on the blade. Tilt the blade to ninety. Adjust the stop screw until the cube reads ninety. Tilt to forty five. Adjust that stop. Now the bevel scale will read true.
Calibrate the fence
Clean the round rail with mineral spirits then apply paste wax. Slide the fence close to the left slot. Use feeler gauges to set it parallel within two thousandths. Lock and unlock the fence at different points to confirm it holds the line.
If you want a stronger lock then many owners fit a T square style fence. This upgrade bolts on with simple drilling. It locks solid with one lever and stays square for years.
Make a zero clearance insert
Cut a blank from half inch Baltic birch. Shape it to match the stock insert. Drop it in place and lower the blade. Clamp the insert down. Start the saw and raise the blade through the blank. The cut line now hugs the teeth and stops tear out on thin plywood.
Plan for a splitter
The saw shipped with a simple splitter that bolts behind the blade. If yours vanished then look for a Shark Guard splitter or a BORK splitter. The thin plate sits close to the teeth and keeps the kerf from closing.
Power and time saving tips
Many dewalt dw746 table saw units run on one hundred twenty volts. Some owners move to two hundred forty volts. The swap cuts current draw in half which can help long cords. Follow the manual for lead placement. Use a dedicated breaker. Check rotation before the first cut.
Keep three push tools close. A long stick for wide rips. A block for short stock. A gripping shoe for narrow strips. Your hands will thank you.
Routine care that keeps the saw happy
Dust is the enemy of smooth gears. A few minutes after each session will save hours later.
After each cut day
- Vacuum the cabinet and the floor under the motor.
- Brush the gears to clear chips.
- Wipe the top and add a thin layer of paste wax.
Monthly quick look
- Inspect the belt for cracks.
- Check blade to slot parallel.
- Check fence lock.
- Spin the blade by hand and listen.
Belt swap steps
- Unplug the saw.
- Remove the side panel.
- Lower the blade fully.
- Lift the motor to slack the belt.
- Slip the worn belt off both pulleys.
- Fit the new AX33 belt.
- Align pulleys with a straightedge.
- Lower the motor so belt tension is firm.
- Spin the pulleys by hand.
- Run the saw for one minute then recheck.
A fresh belt may squeak for a second. It will seat quickly.
Dry film lube
Wet grease grabs dust. Spray a dry Teflon based lube on lift screws and bevel gears. Wipe off any excess. Repeat each quarter.
Bearing noise
If a steady growl stays after blade changes then plan a bearing swap. Pull the arbor per the manual. Press in new sealed bearings. Reassemble the parts. A motor shop can press them if you lack a press.
Common issues and quick fixes
- Burn marks often mean a dull blade.
- Fence drift often means the fence face is not flat.
- Vibration often comes from a glazed belt.
- Dust in the air often means a small port.
- Move to a four inch hose and seal gaps with foam tape.
Upgrades that deliver real gains
- A T square fence adds repeatable cuts.
- Cast iron wings add mass and damp noise.
- A quality miter gauge like an Incra or Osborne brings dialed angles.
- A front mounted switch with a large paddle makes shut off fast.
- An over blade guard with a hose catches fine dust.
Fine accuracy moves
Some woodworkers chase perfection so here are steps for that last sliver. Mount a dial gauge base on the cast top. Place the probe on the arbor flange. Spin the flange and note runout. A reading under two thousandths is great. If a burr causes high spots then polish the flange with a fine stone. Check blade body runout next. If numbers rise swap in a fresh blade. Set fence toe. A tiny toe out at the back avoids burn on dense maple. Use feeler gauges to place the back of the fence two thousandths wider than the front. Mark one corner of the fence face. Always measure from that corner when you set rip width. This habit locks consistency. Record all readings in a small log. Over time you will spot wear before it hurts a project.
Workflow tips for smooth projects
Sheet goods
Break down large panels with a track saw. Trim edges on the dewalt 746 table saw using a forty tooth blade. Support the panel with a slider or a wide crosscut sled.
Solid lumber ripping
Use a twenty four tooth rip blade. Keep the fence parallel. Add a feather board near the front of the blade. Feed steady and listen for a smooth pitch. A clean rip feels like peeling ribbon from a gift.
Crosscuts
Mount a sixty tooth blade. Use a heavy miter gauge with a long fence. Clamp a stop block for repeat pieces. The cut line will sparkle.
Dados and grooves
Stack an eight inch dado set. Drop a blank insert that matches the stack width. Dial depth with a gauge block. Use a feather board to keep the board flat.
Tenons
Stand the work on edge in a tenon jig. Make two cheeks then trim the shoulders with a sled. Test fit often. A snug joint feels sweet.
Make dust collection better
The stock port is small. Replace it with a four inch flange. Add a sealed plywood box under the blade with a hose that runs to the flange. Seal cabinet seams with tape. Attach a clear hood above the blade with a small hose. Your lungs will feel the win.
Fast facts
- Use AX33 ribbed belt.
- Run the saw on a twenty amp one hundred twenty volt circuit.
- Use eight inch dado stack up to thirteen sixteenth inch width.
- Weight is near two hundred pounds.
- Slots are three quarter by three eighth inch.
- Fair used price sits near six hundred for clean units.
- A four inch dust hose cuts airborne chips.
Tool kit for a new owner
- Twenty four tooth rip blade.
- Forty tooth combo blade.
- Sixty or eighty tooth crosscut blade.
- Eight inch dado set.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base.
- Three foot steel straightedge.
- Paste wax.
- Dry film lube.
- Push stick push block gripping shoe.
- Feather boards.
A short story on fence tuning
I bought my dewalt table saw dw746 from a retired carpenter. The saw came with the stock fence. My first rip in cherry left faint burns at the back. I felt my stomach sink. I slid the fence off and placed a straightedge along its face. A tiny bump sat near the rear clamp. I placed a strip of blue tape on the front half of the face. I locked the fence and ripped again. The burn vanished. That small win sparked a habit. I now check the fence face once a month. It takes one minute and saves a project.
Long term value
The dw746 dewalt keeps price because it blends solid cast iron with simple service parts. The motor uses standard bearings. The belt is easy to find. The cast top resists rust if you wax it. Sell it after ten years and you will often get what you paid.
Simple project ideas for first cuts
Start with a cutting board because it needs only straight rips and crosscuts. Choose maple and walnut for contrast. Rip strips at two inch width. Flip every other strip to mix the grain. Glue the panel then sand flush. Finish with food safe oil. Next try a small bookshelf. Cut sides and shelves from three quarter inch plywood. Use the dado set for shelf dados. Test fit before glue up. Edge band the front with solid maple for strength. A coat of clear varnish lets the wood show. Both projects build skill and give useful items for the home. Each step will deepen your feel for the saw. With every project you will trust your dewalt table saw dw746 a bit more.
Final pep talk
You now hold a clear path from first look at a used dewalt dw746 table saw to the smell of fresh shavings on your floor. Start slow. Follow the steps. Keep the saw clean. Use sharp blades. Respect the blade and enjoy the craft. The next time a board slides off the back of the table with an edge that glints in the light you will smile. That moment makes every tune up worth it. Share a photo with a friend and let the grin spread. Woodwork brings calm and a tuned dewalt table saw makes the calm feel easy.