I still remember the sweet smell of wax on warm iron when I eased a sprunger table saw onto my shop floor. It looked worn. Rust freckles dotted the top. The fence shook if I nudged it. The motor switch felt gummy. I set a mug on the cast iron, stared, and grinned. Under that thin skin of grime waited a workhorse that only needed care.
You might be eyeing one right now. Maybe it sits in a neighbor shed. Maybe you spotted it at an estate sale. You want facts before you haul it home. You landed in the right place. I will walk you through history, specs, buying tips, full restoration, smart upgrades, and safe use. I speak plain shop English. I keep each sentence tight. I drop jargon that clouds meaning. You will leave ready to judge, buy, and tune your saw.
Why Sprunger Still Matters
Sprunger Brothers started in Indiana during the early part of the last century. They built machines for real work. Cast iron ruled their shop floors. Engineers there favored simple strong parts over fancy frills. The firm changed towns a few times yet the core idea stayed steady. A Sprunger machine had weight, true tables, and fences that lined up with little fuss.
Production slowed in the late nineteen seventies and slipped away in the eighties. Parts warehouses emptied long ago. The machines keep cutting because most wear items match standard stock. You gain solid iron for far less cash than a new cabinet saw. You invest sweat instead of dollars. Many woodworkers value that trade.
Meet The Common Models
Sprunger sold bench saws and floor saws. Blade sizes spread across eight, nine, ten, and a rare ten and one quarter inch. Use the list below to name what you find.
- BL eight and E series bench saws
Cast tops with tilt arbor. Often ride on thin stands. Fences run simple clamp rails.
- B nine
Nine inch blade. Same bones as the eight. Some runs used lighter trunnions so inspect.
- B ten and one quarter
Floor model. Large table and hefty base. Owners often fit ten inch blades.
- G series
Later production. Cast tops stayed. Fit and finish saw small gains.
Shared Features
- Cast iron main table and many cast wings
- Tilt arbor setup with gear driven lift
- Belt drive induction motor often at one or two horsepower
- Miter slots that fit standard three quarter by three eighth inch bars
- Rip fence designs changed over time yet all clamp at front
Quick Motor Facts
Most motors carry a common frame so modern replacements drop in without drama. Voltage plates show either one hundred fifteen or two hundred thirty volts.
Arbor Size Check
Nearly every Sprunger saw uses a five eighth inch arbor. Always measure with a caliper before you order blades or dado sets.
Should You Buy One
Use this field test before you hand over cash or lift iron into your truck.
- Spin the arbor by hand. It must turn smooth and silent.
- Watch blade wobble with a fixed pencil tip. Gap shift shows bearing wear.
- Crank raise and tilt through full travel. It should glide with no grind.
- Slide a straightedge on the table. Dips mean time with sandpaper or a mill.
- Lock the fence then shove the far end. Any drift means rebuild or replace.
- Read the motor plate so you know power, volts, and frame.
- Open the switch box. Old cloth wire needs a full rewire.
- Scan cast parts for cracks. Focus on trunnions and tilt brackets.
- Measure miter slot width with a cheap rule. Standard means easy sled parts.
- Ask for spare guards or manual pages. They add value.
Price swings by state and condition. Rough bench saws can cost pocket change. Clean floor units bring real money. Table health and fence style drive price more than paint.
Five Stage Home Shop Restoration
I break the job into clear stages. Work slow. Respect your hands. Your saw will reward you.
Stage One: Map And Record
Shoot photos from every side before a bolt moves. Tag parts in small bags. Note missing pieces. Decide if you strip to bare cast or just clean and align.
Stage Two: Safe Strip
Unplug the cord. Remove the blade. Take off fence, rails, and wings. Drop belts. Lift the top on floor models. Lower the arbor group with care. Keep shims in order.
Stage Three: Rust And Paint
Cast iron loves a vinegar soak or a rust remover pad. Scrub until gray skin shows. Rinse with water then dry fast with heat. Burnish with a razor blade held flat. Rub light oil and polish with a gray pad. Seal with paste wax and buff to a satin.
Painted bits take a wire wheel then primer then a hard enamel. Inside of the cabinet I use light gray so lost nuts stand out.
Stage Four: Mechanical Rebuild
Press in new sealed bearings. Clean pulley faces. Align motor and arbor with a straightedge. Fit a new V belt at right tension. Clear threads on raise and tilt screws. Wipe dry lube on gears and ways. Dust will slide off dry lube and not stick like grease.
Stage Five: Fresh Electrics
Old cords crack. Replace with proper gauge plus a modern strain relief. Fit a magnetic starter with overload trip. Ground the frame. Confirm motor wiring suits shop volts. Swap start and run capacitors if the motor hums.
Alignment For True Cuts
Precision lives in the small gaps. A dial indicator helps yet feeler paper and patience work as well.
Blade To Miter Slot
Raise blade high. Mark one tooth. Place indicator on that tooth at table front. Zero dial. Rotate tooth to back. The reading must stay within two thousandths of an inch. If needed, loosen the table bolts or trunnion bolts then tap parts tiny amounts. Recheck and lock.
Fence To Slot
Pick one slot as master. Lock fence mid travel. Measure gap at front and back with a thin rule. Aim for parallel or two thousandths open at rear. A slight open lowers burn.
Blade Tilt Stops
Square blade to table with a steel square. Adjust ninety degree stop screw until it kisses. Tilt to forty five on scale and set that stop.
Miter Gauge Check
Fit bar so it slides with no side play. Square head at zero and cut two sticks. Flip one and push edges. A taper shows error. Adjust until joint closes.
Runout And Vibration
Place indicator on arbor near threads. Spin by hand. Less than one thousandth runout feels like new. If belts thump swap for link belts yet only after you tune pulley line.
Upgrades That Respect Vintage Iron
I add fresh ideas while I keep the soul.
- Fit a modern square tube fence if the factory unit drifts.
- Make a zero clearance insert from birch ply with a bolt on splitter.
- Mount a clear blade guard for rip work.
- Screw a sheet metal shroud under blade and add a two and one half inch dust port.
- Stick a strip of light emitting diode tape inside the base for bright service views.
- Keep a digital angle cube on hand for quick bevel checks.
Parts Supply Paths
You can keep a sprunger table saw alive thanks to standard parts.
- Bearings, belts, switches, and motors come from any tool store.
- Pulleys match common key sizes.
- Fence swaps from other brands fit with drilled rails.
- Miter gauges follow standard bar size so new gauges slide right in.
- Old Montgomery Ward Powr Kraft saws share many castings if you need donors.
- A small machine shop can turn a pivot pin or weld a cracked ear.
Bring clear photos and sizes when you post on forums. Helpers answer fast when data is clear.
Dust Control Plan
Vintage saws leak dust. You can tame it with easy steps.
- Build a tight lower shroud from thin plywood.
- Seal big cabinet gaps with magnetic sheet stock that peels for service.
- Pull air with a small collector through a four inch hose at the base.
- Add a light overarm hose for topside pick up when you rip.
Air flow keeps lungs happy and the shop cleaner.
Safety Gear And Habits
Old iron gains modern safety with smart habits.
- Use a splitter or riving style knife for every rip.
- Push blocks with grippy soles keep hands clear.
- Clamp feather boards in the slot when stock is narrow.
- Mount a red paddle switch you can bump with a knee.
- Wear eye and ear protection.
- Keep the blade guard on except when a sled rides the slots.
Three Shop Roles For A Restored Saw
Many owners run a restored Sprunger as a second station. Here are my favorite roles.
- Dedicated Crosscut Sled Station
Set a wide sled. Add a stop block for repeat parts. The main saw stays ready for long rips.
- Dado And Groove Station
Keep a dado set mounted. Swap zero clearance inserts for crisp walls. A tall fence face supports panels.
- Angle Rip Station
Lock the bevel at a common angle. Keep gauges close for quick checks. Thin stock jigs clamp parts safe.
Money Talk
Here is the plain math.
- Rough bench saw can cost less than a night out.
- Clean floor model can reach the high hundreds.
- Bearings, belt, switch, cord, paint, and wax add a few hundred more.
- A new two horsepower motor costs modest cash yet adds years of smooth cuts.
Total still lands below a fresh cabinet saw yet you gain weight and charm.
Troubles And Simple Fixes
Problem: Lift or tilt sticks.
Fix: Clean screws and ways then add dry lube.
Problem: Arbor wiggles.
Fix: Press new bearings and dress washer faces.
Problem: Fence wanders.
Fix: Rebuild pads or mount a new fence rail.
Problem: Motor hums at start.
Fix: Swap start capacitor or clean centrifugal switch.
Problem: Table top pits.
Fix: Clean rust and wax. Pits rarely hurt accuracy.
Story From My Bench
My last rescue looked like a cookie pan left in rain. I poured vinegar on the top, waited, and scraped. Gray skin emerged. I warmed the table with a heat gun, rubbed wax, and buffed. The wheel turned like a vault door. I laid a maple board on the fence, pushed, and listened. The cut edge came out glass smooth. That sound still makes me smile.
Shoot Pics For Future You
Take photos during the process. They help later and aid others.
- Nameplate for model proof
- Table before and after
- Trunnion and tilt gear close ups
- Arbor bearing swap steps
- Fence test with rule at front and back
- New switch wiring in the box
- Dust shroud under blade
Label files with clear names. Add alt text for web posts.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Which blade size fits my saw*
Most Sprunger units use an eight or ten inch blade. Some floor saws marked ten and one quarter still spin a ten inch blade without hassle. Check arbor length and throat gap before a cut.
- What arbor size do I have*
Five eighth inch is standard on nearly every model. Measure to be safe.
- Can I mount a riving knife*
A true riving knife rises with the blade and needs special mounts. Older saws lack that. A splitter bolted to a zero clearance insert works almost as well and installs fast.
- Are parts still around*
Standard wear parts like bearings or belts sit in any shop supply. Cast specific parts are rare yet donors and small shops fill gaps.
- Which fence should I run*
A square tube fence from a known maker offers easy repeat cuts. Drill new holes in rails and bolt on. A well built wooden fence can work if funds run tight.
- How accurate can I get*
With solid bearings and careful alignment you can hold two thousandths of an inch on blade to slot. Add a sharp blade and results sing.
- Is a nine inch worth the time*
Yes for small box work and sled tasks. It loses depth on thick stock so plan work flow.
- What motor size is best*
One and one half horsepower cuts hardwood with a thin kerf blade. Two horsepower gives breathing room.
- How do I catch dust on an open stand*
Fit a plywood chute under the blade. Close openings with magnetic sheets. Pull air through a hose to a small collector.
Wrap Up
A sprunger table saw asks for patience and gives smooth clean cuts in return. Start with a flat waxed top. Wire a safe switch. Align blade to slot. Lock a solid fence. Then feed a board and listen to iron ring. Share a photo when your saw shines. I will clap from my bench.