Maple shavings curled across the floor last weekendsoft, warm, and fragrant.
My lathe hummed like a tired bee.
Four blanks spun into cylinders, then grew beads and tapers.
When the dust settled my daughter tapped one leg and said, Feels real.
That one line made the sore arms worth it.
You can snag that same grin.
This guide walks you through every step while keeping the ride smooth.
Why these legs lift a room
Square furniture feels fine yet flat.
Add round legs and light skims around curves like water under moonlight.
A slim taper hints at mid-century cool.
A chunky baluster screams farmhouse comfort.
Pick the right shape and the top looks brighter because contrast sells the show.
Quick wins you will snag
- Strong stance through proper post size
- Profiles that match your vibe
- Smooth grain that drinks stain evenly
Anatomy in plain words
Think of a leg as a story in wood.
Each part plays a role.
- Post: Square section that joins the apron
- Pommel: Sharp line where square meets round
- Shaft: Main round body
- Bead: Tiny raised ring
- Cove: Hollow dip that hugs the bead
- Fillet: Flat land between shapes
- Foot: Bottom end that meets the floor
Know these terms and plans will read like bedtime tales.
Standard sizes that work
Stick with proven numbers first, tweak later.
- Dining height: 29-inch length, post width 3 inches for a solid feel, 2 inches for a lighter look
- End table: 25-inch length
- Coffee table: 16-18-inch length
- Kitchen island: 34 or 36 inch length for counter match
Style thickness guide
- Modern taper: 2 -inch top that slides to 1 -inch foot
- Farmhouse baluster: 3 -inch post that stays near 2 -inch foot
- Mid-century round: 2-inch post that trims to 1-inch foot
Tool kit that gets the job done
You can start small.
Fancy rigs help yet are not required.
Lathe
- At least 36 inches between centers for dining legs
- Twelve-inch swing keeps clearance comfy
- Variable speed eases control yet pulley drive still works
Work holding
- Spur drive center
- Live center
- Face shield for eye safety
- Tool rest longer than your widest feature
Cutting tools
- Roughing gouge, about 1 inch wide
- Spindle gouge, inch
- Skew chisel, 1-inch wide
- Parting tool, slim blade
- Carbide cutters, nice for beginners
Measuring
- Two outside calipers, small and large
- Ruler plus pencil
- Dividers
- Painter tape for fast flags
- Story stick, your new best pal
Smoothing and finish
- Sandpaper in 120, 150, 180, 220, 320
- Tack cloth or shop vac
- Chosen stain or dye
- Clear topcoat such as oil poly, water poly, shellac, or hardwax oil
Wood that spins with grace
Dry stock should sit near eight percent moisture.
Straight grain by the post keeps joints tight.
- Maple turns crisp, stays bright under clear coat
- Cherry cuts like butter and deepens under sunlight
- Walnut offers dark lines that glow under oil
- Red oak shows bold grainuse filler for glass-smooth feel
- White oak gives quiet grain yet strong bite
- Ash stays light and loves paint
- Pine cuts easypre-seal before stain
Blank sizes to buy or mill
- Dining leg stout look: 3 3 30 inches
- Dining leg sleek: 2 2 30 inches
- End table: 2 2 26 inches
- Coffee table: 3 3 18 inches for chunky or 2 2 18 inches for trim
Stack blanks side by side.
Mark a triangle across ends so grain lines stay in order.
Story stick magic
A story stick locks every mark so each leg matches its twins.
Build one fast
- Rip a straight strip, three-quarter by one inch by 36 inches.
- Draw a center line down its face.
- Mark post length, often four to six inches.
- Mark foot line near bottom if you want a foot ring.
- Sketch beads, coves, and tapers.
- Write target diameters near each mark.
- Drill tiny holes on the lines so a sharp pencil snaps in.
Tape a caliper card on the sticklist spots and gauges so setup flies.
Prep steps before the lathe
- Crosscut blanks to equal length.
- Plane faces until square.
- Find center on each end with a finder, mark an X.
- Dimple each center with an awl.
- Align grain arcs the same way on all blanks.
Safety first last and always
- Wear a full face shield.
- Tie back hair.
- Keep the tool rest close, gap no more than one eighth inch.
- Spin the blank by hand to check clearance.
- Stand aside at startup.
Safe speeds
- Rough a 3 -inch square at 700 rpm.
- Shape a 3-inch round at 1200 rpm.
- Sand at 600 rpm.
Drop speed if chatter sings.
Turning path step by step
Work one stage on all legs before moving to the next stage.
This keeps muscle memory fresh and sizes tight.
1. Rough to round
Mount between centers with drive at top.
Rest sits slightly below center.
Use roughing gouge in light peeling cuts until a pencil line stays unbroken.
2. Transfer story stick marks
Hold the stick tight to the round.
Snap a pencil in each hole.
Wrap painter tape at post and foot.
3. Cut crisp pommels
Pencil square lines on post faces.
Lay skew flat and lead with toe.
Ease into corner from round side.
Slow strokes avoid chips on edges.
4. Part to target diameters
Open calipers to size.
Part down at each mark.
Stop the lathe to measure.
Leave material a hair fat for cleanup.
5. Shape features
- Beads: Roll skew or spindle gouge from flat toward center until peaks meet.
- Coves: Drop handle of gouge, sweep to center, lift out.
- Tapers: Use skew in long planing passes.
6. Fair curves
Smooth transitions with skew.
Sight from side, feel with fingers.
Tiny ridges show up to touch before eye.
7. Sand smooth
Slow speed.
Start at 150 unless tear-out shows.
Work through grits.
Hand sand with grain between passes to erase rings.
Keep each leg identical
- Trust the story stick, never guess.
- Turn to lines, not memory.
- Cut scrap rings as go-no-go gauges.
- Flag calipers with tape at key numbers.
- Batch each task across the set.
- Hold one finished leg as master and check often.
Troubleshooting fast fixes
- Tear-out at pommel: Sharpen skew, take gentle passes.
- Skew catches: Keep cut in lower third of edge, start shallow.
- Chatter on long taper: Move rest closer, lighten cuts, lower speed.
- Flat spots on beads: Mark bead center, roll both sides to peak.
- Diameter drift: Stop for caliper checks, part heavy then plane.
- Out-of-round after sanding: Use firm block, move along length, never linger.
Finish that feels like furniture
Prep
Wipe legs with damp cloth to raise grain.
Let dry.
Light sand at 220.
Stain tips
- Maple loves dye or gel stain.
- Cherry darkens fast under oil, seal first for even tone.
- Oak shows bold grain, filler yields glass sheen or leave rugged for hand-made charm.
- Pine needs pre-stain conditioner.
Clear coat paths
- Oil poly warms tone and builds a strong film.
- Water poly stays clear and resists yellowing.
- Shellac dries quick and glows, add wax for soft sheen.
- Hardwax oil leaves natural feel and easy repair.
Pick satin for legs since gloss shouts any wobble.
Joinery that lasts
Mortise and tenon with apron
Cut mortises on two inside faces of each post.
Shape tenons on apron ends.
Dry fit, then glue and clamp.
Add corner blocks for extra bite.
Mounting block and hanger bolt
Screw block under top.
Drive hanger bolt into leg.
Spin leg into threaded plate on block.
Add hidden screw through block into leg to stop spin.
Apron with pocket screws
Build apron frame with pocket screws.
Fix frame to top with figure-eight clips.
Bolt legs to posts with cross dowels.
Check that post meat suits hardware3 inch post handles most layouts.
Sample profiles to copy
Modern taper
- Post: 2 2 4 inches
- Shaft: Taper to 1 inch foot
- Tiny fillet above foot
Farmhouse baluster
- Post: 3 3 5 inches
- One large vase in center
- Two beads by post, one bead near foot
- Foot stays near 2 inches
Mid-century round
- Post: 2 2 3 inches
- Straight taper to 1-inch foot
- Simple foot ring
Numbers start you off yet your eye closes the deal.
Quick weekend plan
Build a breakfast table that seats two.
- Four blanks: 2 2 30 inches
- Top: 36-inch round
- Apron rails: 2 inches tall, add small bead on lower edge
- Clear maple finish keeps kitchen bright
Turn legs with clean taper, glue frame, fasten top, enjoy morning coffee.
Speed sharpening pays back fast
- Grind roughing gouge to light fingernail.
- Keep spindle gouge near 45-degree edge.
- Hone skew with diamond card until it slices paper.
- Touch edges oftensharp steel saves effort.
Care after the build
- Level table on hard floor.
- Stick felt pads under feet.
- Tighten bolts each spring.
- Wipe legs with soft cloth during cleanup.
- Refresh wax or oil finish as wear shows.
Glossary for quick recall
- Bead: Small raised ridge.
- Cove: Hollow dip between beads.
- Fillet: Flat band that splits shapes.
- Pommel: Line where square shifts to round.
- Post: Square top of leg.
- Story stick: Marked strip that holds layout.
Common questions
- How long should dining legs be*
Aim for 29 inches once top and glides sit.
- Which lathe size suits dining legs*
Reach 36 inches between centers and 12-inch swing.
- How do I avoid chips at pommel*
Sharp skew, tiny cuts, entry from round side.
- Best wood for turned wood table legs*
Hard maple wins on strength and clean grain yet cherry, walnut, oak, and pine each work with right finish.
- Do I sand on or off the lathe*
Both, first at slow spin then by hand with grain.
- Which finish survives rough kids*
Water poly gives clear tough coat.
Final vibe check
Turned wood table legs bring heart to any buildcurves catch light and invite touch.
Use a story stick, trust your calipers, keep cuts light, and you will craft pieces that stand proud for decades.
Send photos of your first set because sharing the journey spreads the joy.